Why surfing is like crack
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Our reward system, the brain and surfing.
Surfing is the most addictive thing I participate in. If I am not actually in the water catching waves, I am thinking about it, planning my next trip, watching the swell charts and replaying my last good wave in my head over and over. In fact, I can’t remember the last time I’ve slept without dreaming about surfing or at least the being in the ocean. I can’t escape the grips of my obsession, to the point of near insanity when there are no waves for more than 4 days.
So what makes surfing so damn addictive?
According to the latest studies, the brain’s pleasure centers are more “turned on” when we experience unpredictable pleasant things. MRI scans showed a brain area called the nucleus accumbens to be much more active when the subjects received unpredictable patterns.
The more unexpected the more obsessed we can become…
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